Trailing Inca Steps

"Are you Mr. Baltin?" the stewardess asked.

"Yes. Why?"

"Your friends are at the gate, claiming that you have their flight tickets and passports."

We were traveling on a shoestring, and this had been the cheapest we found. The midnight flight on COPA Airlines. COPA - that is Panama Air. We were a bunch of friends on our way from Santiago de Chile to Lima, but two had not showed up. They wanted to use the early evening to acquaint themselves with a handful of bars downtown. We were to meet them at the airport. At midnight. Yeah right!

COPA - that is "Sorry we can't let them in anymore. The system is closed." Carlos and Philipp were standing at the gate, just a minute away, but the system was closed. When they had not appeared by the last boarding call, we had reluctantly entered the plane, reckoning that we would meet them in Peru the following day. But we had completely forgotten about their tickets and passports: A stack of travel gear does not look cool on you in a bar, so they had left their pack with us. It was sitting on the two empty plane seats right next to us. And heck that's right: In there were probably their tickets and passports. We were lucky, the stewardess was in a good mood: "I can bring them their documents." She was already on her way out when I shouted after her down the aisle: "Tell them to meet us... meet... on the main square in Cuzco, Peru!" Every town in South America has to have a main square, right?!

Later we realized the implication of this logic: For days, we spent our time warming the benches on the main square in Cuzco, Peru. Waiting. We had figured that they would take a flight the following morning. They couldn't. They had to take the next midnight flight, which was again delayed until the following morning. I was already wondering what on earth the stewardess might have told our friends, in which out-off-the-way dwelling they would now be searching for us on the main square, when finally we saw two familiar faces screen the main square of Cuzco. After a happy reunion, we spent another day or two basking around town.

But we had come to hike to Machu Picchu, the "Lost City of the Inca". This old Inca town is connected to Cuzco by train (boring) and the Inca Trail (all but boring). This trail leads through the high regions of the Andean mountains and is a temptation and challenge for many travelers. It takes some three to four days to hike the Inca Trail and reach Machu Picchu. Most people prepare well for this trip. Most do it only with an organized tour. With a guide. With good equipment. With food provided.

It was 7:00pm when we made up our mind to start the hike the following morning. We had no tents, no sleeping bags, no food, no clue. But somehow we managed: At 4:30am the next morning, we were staggering tiredly around the main square again, waiting for the bus to drive us out into the mountains. Somehow the preceding evening, we had managed to organize two old tents, a few sleeping bags and some rudimentary cooking gear. We still had no food: It took us a while to persuade the bus driver to stop in a small village, so that we could buy some pasta and about 27 chocolate bars. A little later, an empty bus vanished down the dirt road, leaving us at the beginning of the Inca Trail. After sorting out our gear, we slowly embarked on the dusty mountain path, which led us steeply into the higher region of the Andes. From vast cactus vegetation, we soon ascended into heights where only low bushes grow.

For the ensuing three days, the scenery was awe-inspiring, a truly magic trip through an ancient realm of clouds and light. The Andean mountains would shine in an array of colors, fresh and fully green in the mornings, hazily bluish at noon, and in a warm and earthy color if met by the setting sun. The trail led along rushing mountain streams, through dense forests, and up to bleak passes. Often, snow-capped mountains would be visible on the horizon. Monotonously trotting along the trail, I started to daydream. I would imagine Inca messengers hurrying along these steps, ancient carriers on their way from Cuzco to Machu Picchu. And suddenly, the indigenous Peruvians who live on the trail today, in their typical colorful clothing, their ponchos, their caps, became all daydream Inca warriors to me ...

But not only the scenery was breathtaking: The physical challenge had a similar effect, so to speak. One peculiarity of the Inca Trail is the fact that most parts of the way consist of old stone steps. At first, this circumstance seemed welcome, as it would provide a clear and safe path. Very soon, however, I realized that steps are relentless: You cannot choose between a small step or a large step, but the path prescribes your pace. Try you to climb steps for three days, fully loaded and high enough up there to struggle for thin air alone! On the third day, we climbed a last flight of stairs, when suddenly, unexpectedly, Machu Picchu lay at our feet. What a relief! And what a sight! We let ourselves sink to the ground and marveled at the sight for a good while. During three strenuous days, we had been waiting for this moment. And here it was: Machu Picchu, in its unique hilltop setting, in its full green color!

After a visit of this old Inca town, we managed to catch the last train back to Cuzco. It happened to be a train for the locals, loaded to burst, so that some passengers would even ride on the outside of the train, clinging on to any handle they could find. As the train darted through the Andean night, amidst the wagon's noise and bustle, we finally found some rest. But we grew quite not for exhaustion alone. It was one of these moments when after the hassle of accomplishing something great, one suddenly finds himself alone again. On these rare occasions, one might turn a bit reflective, looking back in some happy bewilderment. We had done it! We had been lucky, and we were grateful for that. Somehow that night, it dawned on me that I had done something that I will joyfully look back upon until the end of my days. Sometimes, I guess, these moments surprise you in the most unexpected fashion. We had done it!